Tuesday, November 11, 2014

November 8, 2014 - Khao Yai National Park - WOW!

We awoke at 6:15 so we could get showers and breakfast before the big adventure.  Ta Ta, our guide, had told us the night before that everything was weather dependent.  He was hoping it would be sunny from the start of the day, but wasn't hopeful since the rainy season seemed to be holding on for dear life!  Cheri meditated on sun and we awoke to blue skies!

We walked around the beautiful hotel grounds that were a garden paradise filled with flowers, butterflies, birds and even local snails.  We had shared with Ta Ta that we love all animals and are happy shooting nearly anything he would find for us – even snails.  That said, we sure hoped we would see a gibbon ape.







Ta Ta picked us up right on time at 8 am and into Khao Yai National Park and world heritage site we went!  The day was action packed and fun filled from the start.  We were barely inside of the park when we found 5 Great Hornbills.  We shot them in multiple poses and then moved on. 

Great Hornbill


Great Hornbill

Just up the winding road we ran into a troop of macaques.  We had seen the short tailed version of this primate in Gibraltar and in Bali.  This was our first encounter with its pigtail cousin.  Just like in other locations these monkeys have turned into beggars and are often found near humans looking for handouts or just outright stealing food. 

Pigtail Macaque

Pigtail Macaque

As we were shooting the macaques, Ta Ta said, “oh look a squirrel – quick shoot it!”.  We were both thinking a squirrel – the macaques are more interesting.  But, being dutiful photographers who never want to miss anything, we swung around and what we saw was definitely photo worthy and not like any squirrel we had ever seen before.  It was huge! Long, black and cream colored, it was running through the trees, sometimes head down as squirrels often do!  Check out those whiskers.  As we were shooting both of these species there was also time to snap a butterfly or two as well as a spider.

squirrel

squirrel

We had barely shot the squirrel, when Ta Ta was deftly moving us down the road.  Before our eyes, a family of White-Handed Gibbons was swinging through the trees by the side of the road!!!  Jackpot!!!!!  You could hear the shutters click as we shot away.  There was a white Mom with a white baby and a black male.  They are all the same species and like cows they have different colors.

White-Handed Gibbons

White-Handed Gibbons

White-Handed Gibbons


The Gibbons were amazing to watch.  The babies stay with Mom for 2-3 years and this one looked to be about a year old. It was clinging to Mom as she swung through the trees with the greatest of ease; the baby playing on her torso as she swung, clearly at home.  The sun was out and the images divinely inspired!

The joy was coursing through the veins as we reflected on how much we had the privilege to see in such a short period and it was not even 10 am!

We got back in the truck and carried on.  The next stop was a view of the mountains and the valley.  It was time to put on our leech proof socks.  “Socks” are a funny name for these cloth bags that you put on your feet and tie at your knees with your pants inside to ensure you don’t get leeches on you!  The light was gorgeous at the pull off and we made a nice valley image. 


leech socks



Next stop was the visitor’s center which had a variety of restaurants, a river running through it and a little shop.  Our guide went to hang out with his guide buddies for about 25 minutes to check out the critter movements, eat, and have a little community.  We got to look around, shop a little, and enjoy nature.  A Chinese Pond Heron, an Indo-Chinese water dragon and more butterflies showed themselves.  Cool!


 Indo-Chinese water dragon

We went looking for Blue bearded bee eaters, instead we found a Shirka hawk drying its wings.  On the walk we found some very cool mushrooms.  Cool!   Ta Ta got a call and a guide thought they heard the elephants so we roared off to find them, but it turns out it were just bush pigs roaring.  As we stood in the jungle, listening for eles, we were by a dam and saw some cool double wing dragonflies and butterflies.  After 15 minutes of listening we decided to head for a jungle walk.

It was clear why we were wearing the ridiculous leech socks all day.  We were going into the jungle with all the critters you would think would be in the jungle.  Since it had rained the day before, like we never see rain in the Northeast US, the tail was still slippery in spots.  The dirt was made of red clay and could be very slippery when wet.  So, looking at every branch above and below and the trail for things that could sting and seriously hurt us, we struck off into the jungle.  Woweee!





About 10 steps into the jungle Ta Ta found the first thing for us to see.  We were now into the little critters, or so we thought….The first was a millipede.  It has a very hard shell and curls into a circle when it feels threatened.  There were mushrooms of every description.  The red ones that looked like bark were very fun to shoot.  Next we saw a cicada condo – they live in the ground and build a stack from clay and spit to enter their hole.  There were many kinds of grasshoppers, butterflies dragonflies, and spiders and even a snake – a green keelback snake in fact!    




Green Keelback Snake

 We walked a little further and all the sudden we heard sounds that could only be one thing – GIBBONS!  Wahoo!!  Another family in action in the trees and this time it was a back mother with a white baby and three black juvenile males.  We tracked them through the trees and the jungle, now moving at pace and still trying to pay attention to the things that can sting and hurt you!  The Mom and Baby were on the move and swinging away!  They stopped for a little while and the young males decided to play with each other – what a fun thing to see!  Just like human brothers running up and down the tree, twisting each other’s heads and dropping each other in the air.  So fun!  Pure joy!!  In the middle of the shoot, another squirrel showed up and began eating giant leaf. 








Next thing we knew, the wild pigs were running through the jungle and it sounded like they were coming right to us.  We started to track them and just missed them by a track (maybe 30 feet), but we saw their tracks. 

Ta Ta found this little hole under a rotten log and went “fishing”….out came a giant scorpion!! 

Scorpion

After 2 hours and 15 minutes we left the jungle behind and took our clay caked feet out into the sun. 

It was 2:30 pm and we were starving, so back to the visitor center for some energy.  We both had red curry – Cheri had pork and John had chicken.  Yummy!  After lunch we had a quick walk around and saw two monitor lizards, another Chinese Pond Heron, deer, and more butterflies.  We even saw a Daddy Long Legs eating a dead bee. 

As we were driving down the road, Cheri spotted some birds in a tree.  We stopped and it was a group of Oriental Hornbills.  What an odd bird – check out their bills.  Very decorative, but seems like a weird way to build a bird. 


Oriental Hornbill

 We headed off to a waterfall and on the way down to it we got to see a mercifully nocturnal Indonesian Pit Viper in the day – which means it was sleeping!  Wow – it was like seeing something out of a movie.

Indonesian Pit Viper





Then the day was nearly done and we headed out of the park, to a driver to return us to the international airport to begin our long journey home.  What a day!!! 

Enjoy!
Cheri & John 

November 7, 2014 - Leaving Phuket and heading to the bat cave

The place we stayed, Sea Pine Villas, was perfect!  Very traditional and had a wonderful energy!  Breakfast was nice with fresh fruit, eggs of your choice, and coffee.  There was a lovely stream running though it with flowers all around.  Cheri enjoyed making images.  





We headed for the airport, cleared security and ran in Marianne and Hans again; one final goodbye for now.  

The plane was right on schedule!!  We landed and our luggage was first off the plane and the driver was waiting!  Yeah – we had a chance to make the flight of 2 million bats!

We made good time and our guide Ta Ta was waiting for us at the Khoa Yai Cottages where we would spend the night.  We dropped the luggage, made a pit stop and headed to the bat cave!

As promised, two million bats made their way into the darkening evening skies. What a sight to see!!  They literally stream out of the cave in these huge long lines, flowing with the wind currents, making patterns in the sky.  We watched until it was too dark to see the bats.




Ta Ta dropped us off at Thai restaurant that was in walking distance of our hotel, good since we didn’t have a car.  The food was good and cost all of $8 for dinner for two!


We got back to the hotel and crashed.  The bed was hard as a rock….another less than perfect sleep.

Enjoy!
Cheri & John

November 6, 2014 - Last two dives

About half way through the 13 hour cruise, we re-entered the storm.  Sigh....more rocking and rolling.  We should have rotated 90 degrees in the bed, but we just rolled back and forth for the second half of the night; getting very little sleep.  

We were up early and practiced our navigation skills on the top deck first alone and then with Anne.  

We motored to Koh Bon for the first dive.  We heard great things about this site.  Of course we moored off a rock in the ocean.  Anne, Marianne, John and Cheri jumped in and descended to the depths.  It was time for the navigation dive.  We got to 40 feet, swam a 100 foot line and counted how many kicks we each made.  Then it was time to do the square.  We both did it and eureka the hardest part of the advanced open water was done!  

mantis shrimp

Titan Triggerfish

Trumpet fish


Napoleon Wrasse


 We started diving to see the scenery and all of the sudden Marianne was leaking air big.  Anne got our attention, told us to buddy up (swim close together) and headed for the surface with Marianne.  We were alone in the sea at the edge of the island where the current was splitting as it flowed around the point.  It felt like it was pushing down on you which is pretty scary.  Cheri held John's hand and stayed very close as we looked for a fish feeding frenzy.  After a while we decided to go up. We got to 20 feet and John filled his safety sausage (a balloon like thing that when filled with air marks where divers are under water).  Unfortunately, his line was only 15 feet long and it pulled him up.  It's really important to go slow at this stage to prevent decompression sickness. Cheri ascended to 15 feet and we did a 3 minutes safety stop.  That is where we hang between 15 and 18 feet to help the nitrogen release from our systems before we head to the surface.  It helps to be sure that you don't get decompression sickness where nitrogen bubbles through your joints and is very painful and can be life threatening.  We then came to the surface and were in rough seas.  John tried to signal the boat, but another boat was blocking us, so we just bobbed in the sea waiting for that boat to clear.  Ultimately it did and our boat saw us and came to pick up.  Yeah!!!

The second, and final dive of the trip, was at Bonsung and was a wreck dive.  It was the final dive we needed to complete our advanced open water course. The dive briefing showed some incredible fish that we might see, in fact were almost guaranteed to see.  One caveat, once in a whole the visibility was near 0 feet.  Anne, Marianne, John and Cheri jumped.  The plan was to take a mooring line down.  As soon as we hit the water, it was murky.  We all hoped it would get better as we descended, but no luck it just kept getting worse.  We needed 20 minute for the dive to count....20 long damn minutes when you can barely see the person next to you!  Cheri and John held hands and Marianne was right nearby!  We endured it and as soon as 20 hit, Cheri signaled to Anne to go up.  Everyone was thankful!!

Then it was time to pack everything and get ready to disembark a few hours later.  There was no time for the gear to dry, so it got packed in plastic bags and off we went.  




Luckily we were in the same van as Marianne and Hans.  Even luckier, they were staying right across the street from us!!  We made a plan to go to dinner together.  They came over around 5 and we went to the beach for beers and dinner.  It was so nice!






Then back to the room for the first full night’s sleep in a long while!  The only rocking was in our heads.  There is a phenomenon when you come off a boat that you've been on for days, your mind still thinks you are on the boat and you continue to feel the rocking motion.  Cheri actually loves the feeling because it extends to good parts!


Enjoy!
Cheri & John